Impact of targeting collagen diversity on skin aging signs: a pilot study
- Journal of Dermatology & Cosmetology
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Franck Juchaux,<sup>1</sup> Thais Martinuzzi,<sup>1</sup> Lucie Guerin,<sup>1</sup> Jean-Thierry Simonnet,<sup>1</sup> Natalia Kovylkina,<sup>2</sup> Elena Catalan Martin<sup>1</sup>
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Abstract
Introduction: Skin aging is marked by a decline in proteostasis, significantly impacting collagen, the skin’s major structural protein. The human skin collagenome comprises 16 types with diverse roles, classified into four families: junctional, initiator, pillar, and bonding. Preserving this collagen biodiversity is crucial for addressing skin aging. This clinical exploratory study assessed the anti-aging activity of a serum containing Grifola frondosa fruiting body extract 0.5%, Rhamnose 5%, and different peptides at 3% (Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1 and Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7). Methodology: Fifty-three women (mean age: 62.1 years) applied a novel serum twice daily for 12 weeks after a 30-day washout period. Efficacy was assessed through clinical scoring, self-assessment questionnaires, and collagen density measurements. Results: The serum significantly improved all assessed skin aging signs after 12 weeks, with improvements in fine lines, plumpness, and radiance appearing as early as after 2 weeks. Fine lines, plumpness, radiance, wrinkles and sagging were reduced by 32.7%, 16.1%, 15.0%, 13% and 7.5% respectively after 12 weeks, alongside a 2.4% increase in collagen density. All observed effects were statistically significant and clinically relevant. Conclusion: This study demonstrated the efficacy of a novel serum in improving signs of aging, including a physiologically relevant increase in collagen density despite the short treatment duration. The observed improvements in skin structure reflected in enhanced plumpness and reduced ptosis, likely contribute to the observed reductions in fine lines, wrinkles, and improved skin radiance. These findings support the importance of targeting collagen for anti-aging benefits and encourage further research into the serum’s mechanism of action on skin collagen stimulation.
Keywords
skin aging, collagens, Grifola frondosa, serum, face, neck